FAQ's

Time for a chat. Our most commonly asked questions

Start by clicking on a category below, e.g. "Aerodynamics" or "Rim Width". Once selected, the FAQ's within any category are then shown below. Simply click on a question to reveal the answer.

2) AERODYNAMICS

Are your wheels wind tunnel tested?


Yes, of course. Wind tunnel testing plays an important integral part in the design and development of our wheels. Each wheel of ours goes through meticulous prototyping with the aerodynamic testing phase occuring at the San Diego low speed wind tunnel.




What type of wind tunnel testing protocol do you use?


This is a question with a potentially very long answer, but, in brief, we try to test each wheel with as many condition variables as possible. To start we use the Low Speed Wind Tunnel in San Diego. This facility allows us to replicate and contol typical wind speeds encountered when riding a bicycle. Then, we'll look at a number of different wind angles (or "yaw" angles) to see how each wheel interacts when faced with cross winds. All wheels are wind tunnel tested on their own, in a bike and in a bike with a rider on it depending on the stage of research.




Are your wheels fast in different cross winds?


One of the most important aspects of our wheels is to ensure that they are fast, stable and ultimately safe to ride in different wind conditions. Our SCT or "Stability Control Technology" governs the specifc cross sectional profile that our rims have. These profiles differ depending on rim depth and are designed purely to offer the lowest drag across all wind angles while also being controllable and safe even when the wind is blowing hard.




What is your "Stability Control Technology" (or SCT) all about?


SCT is our study of rim profiles and how they interact with different yaw angles. A yaw angle is another term for "wind angle" and deals with the interaction of a rider and the wind. The yaw angle changes depending on a) which direction the wind is blowing from and b) how quickly the rider is going. If the wind direction stays constant the yaw angle can still change depending on how quickly the rider is cycling. For any given wind direction the faster the rider is going the lower the yaw angle will be. High yaw angles tend to be more problematic from a stability perspective. Our SCT tunes a rim profile to a specific shape depending on it's depth. A 30mm deep rim will have a much different cross sectional profile to a 90mm deep rim and this is all because of how different rim depths behave at different yaw angles. Each one of our rims is optimally configured via our "SCT" to guarantee the quickest and most stable ride possible.




What is "yaw" angle and why is it important?


Yaw angle is the combination of wind direction and speed from a meteorlogical perspective and rider speed. Yaw angle is the apparent resistive force experienced by a rider when riding at any given wind speed and angle. Standing still the rider experiences the wind speed and angle purely governed by the weather. But, as soon as the rider starts moving the wind is now theoretically hitting the rider at a different angle and speed as the forces experienced are now a combination of both the meterlogical conditions and rider propulsion. This combination is what is termed as the "yaw" angle. Understanding yaw angles is important in wheel design as it governs the wheel's rim profile. To be truly successful, a wheel must perform over a large range of yaw angles, with success being measured in speed and stability. Our "Stability Control Technology", or "SCT" for short, deals with yaw angles by tuning the rim profile, depending on rim depth to offer the fastest and most stable performance across a full scope of wind conditions and riding speeds.





3) TYRES

What width tyre should I use on your wide "Plus" clincher rims?


Our "Plus" clincher/tubeless rims as seen on our "Jet", "Vanquish", "Black" and "Ardennes" wheel collections are optimised for use with 23mm - 28mm width tyres. Bear in mind that this is a rough guide as the quoted tyre size that is printed on the side of the tyre can often vary quite a bit from manufacturer to manufacturer. All tyres from all manfacturers with a quoted measurement of 22mm - 28mm should work perfectly with our "Plus" rims but remember that the actual width is actually governed by what we call tyre "carcass" width. "Carcass" width is the width measurement taken when the tyre is laid as flat as possible on a flat surface. The larger this width, the wider the tyre will be when installed and inflated on a wheel. Remember also that our "Plus" rims spread a tyre out more across it's width that on a narrower rim from another manufacturer. This also has a great bearing on the tyres actual, installed width. For example, a Continental GP4000s clincher, with a quoted width of 25mm actually measures 28mm in width when installed on our "Plus" rims. Choose your tyre width depending on your riding style/requirements. Try 25s for all round performance for racing or riding Gran Fondos/sportives. Try 28s for a little more comfort across rougher surfaces or use a 23mm width, especially on the front wheel if you want the ultimate in aerodynamics. Or, try mixing and matching to really fine tune your ride.




How much tyre pressure should I use on your "Plus" clincher rims?


To be honest, tyre pressure is quite a personal thing, varies from rider to rider and is dependent on a number of external factors. It’s true, that with our wider “plus” rims, that have an internal width of 21mm, you now should run lower tyre pressures than you used to with narrower rims. This is really down to two main things, air volume and tyre to road contact patch, both of which are altered by our wider ‘plus’ rims.
Because of the wider rim, the tyre beads, that hook on to the rim, are spread further apart from each other. This has the effect of increasing the internal tyre volume which means that the same amount of air can be pumped in to the tyre but at a lower pressure.
This act of “tyre bead spreading” also alters the tyre to road “footprint” and turns it from a long and narrow shape, to short and fat. Because of the shape and how it interacts with the road, the new short and fat “footprint” results in less rolling resistance and increased cornering grip.
When looking at rolling resistance and when speaking generally with a good road surface in mind, more pressure means a faster ride, to a point. But, this is to the detriment of comfort and cornering grip. So, before our wider rims were conceived a compromise needed to be made, did you want a faster ride or a more comfortable, grippy ride? Our “Plus” rims take away this question. Because of the increased air volume and altered tyre “footprint” you can run a much lower pressure without sacrificing any rolling resistance. And, we all know that a lower tyre pressure equals a more comfortable ride with increased cornering confidence so you win twofold. Depending on rider weight and road surface there is obviously a point where, besides being a detriment to comfort and cornering grip, you can put too much pressure in your tyres that actually results in increased rolling resistance. If a tyre is pumped up too firmly it will "skip" across the road surface, almost at an undetectable level. This "skipping" is actually the tyre slightly moving up and down in accordance with the frequency of small road imperfections. Any movement, other than forward movement is detrimental to speed so this skipping needs to be reduced by altering the tyre pressure so that the tyre actually starts to "conform" to any rough road surface, in turn reducing rolling resistance.
With what we have discussed above we can now make some recommendations for tyre pressure. Please note that this recommendation is purely that and that a little personal experimentation needs to occur to arrive at your optimal tyre pressure.
Starting with you body weight in kilograms multiply this number by 0.9. So, if you weigh 75kg a good starting tyre pressure would be around 68psi. You then need to go for a short ride. How does it feel? How does the bike handle going around corners? Is the ride comfortable or maybe too comfortable? You can make incremental adjustments based on your sensations.
Some factors to note when assessing tyre pressure are tyre brand and quality, actual tyre width when mounted and inflated, road surface quality, weather conditions and type of course that you are riding over. A better tyre will generally be more supple so may need a couple of extra psi. A wider tyre when mounted could need a little less pressure because of a greater internal tyre volume. Bumpy roads will need less pressure than a smooth velodrome to aid comfort. If you’re after all out speed and are searching a PB then a little more pressure may help. If it’s raining, knock the pressure down a touch to help increase grip.
The bottom line is that once you have calculated the starting pressure from our guide formula you have to actively seek the ideal pressure for you and your riding circumstances.




Do you recommend any specific tyres for your "Plus" clincher rims?


We really like riding tubeless here at HED and have had some really pleasing installation and riding results with the Schwalbe One range of tubeless tyres. They mount really easily, especially when using the Schwalbe mounting fluid, have some of the lowest rolling resistance numbers of any present tyre, have good cornering grip and are reliable from a wear and puncture resistance perspectives, especially when used in conjunction with their tyre sealant. If you prefer to use a traditional clincher tyre and inner tube set up then we have found Continental to be particularly reliable. Their range seem to perform well from speed, cornering and puncture aspects with their GP4000s tyre being a great all rounder and their GP TT being one of the quickest tyres we have ever used.




What tyres should I use for best aero performance on your "Plus" clincher rims?


From our extensive aerodynamic research both in the wind tunnel and out in the real world we have found that for the best aerodynamic performance a tyre that is a little narrower than the rim width is optimal. Remember that tyre width should be assessed when it's actually installed and inflated rather than going by the tyre manufacturers quoted tyre size. This is because tyre size can vary greatly from manufacturer to manufacturer and from the quoted widths. Our "Plus" rims, as seen on our "Black", "Jet" and "Ardennes", have an external width of 25mm. So, for absolute aerodynamic performance a tyre that sits on the rim with a width of 23-25mm will be optimal. Likewise, our "Vanquish" Plus rim has an external width of 30mm. So for this wheel something like a 25mm wide tyre will be the quickest. The idea with the tyre is to try and make a flowing, single shape with the rim. A slightly narrower tyre best facilitates this concept. You also need to take rolling resistance in to consideration when choosing your tyres. Wider tyres have less rolling resistance but slightly more drag so finding the ultimate low drag to rolling resistance ratio takes a little experimentation.




I want as much comfort as possible. What tyres and what tyre pressure?


Comfort is largely goverened by tyre pressure and generally speaking the lower the tyre pressure the more ride comfort. You have to be careful not to go too low with your tyre pressure though as it can lead to a "squirmy" unstable cornering sensation and, if using a standard clincher tyre and inner tube set up, pinch punctures. Fortunately, our "Plus" clincher rims have a widest-in-class internal rim width that naturally facilitates lower tyres pressures. By spreading the tyre base wider the tyre is granted more air volume and increased sidewall stability. The important result of this is that lower tyre pressures can be used, granting more comfort, without risking poor cornering properties and pinch flats. If comfort is the goal then a wider tyre will always tend to be the better choice. A 28mm tyre would be a great option. The pressure that you run this at is then governed by a number of things. To read more about tyre pressure check the "How much tyre pressure should I use in your Plus clincher rims" question in this "Tyres" section of our FAQ's.




Tubeless clincher tyres. Are your wheels compatible with these?


All of our "Plus" rims (as seen on our "Jet", "Ardennes", "Black" and "Vanquish" wheels) are tubeless-ready and accept any road tubeless tyre. Supplied with the "Plus" wheels is an adhesive, airtight rim tape that is designed for use with tubeless tyres but can also be used with normal clincher and inner tube set ups. To run a tubeless-ready tyre you will also need a tubeless valve. This is a specific valve and installs in to the rim when installing the tubeless tyre. These valves are available from us in the "Parts & Accessories" section of our shop on our website.





4) WHAT WHEELS?

What are the quickest wheels you make?


This is a question that has an endless answer. To be honest there is no one quickest wheel for all applications and if there were then we would be multi billionaires by now. The quickest wheel for you is governed by what type of riding you do over what type of terrain/ride profiles. It's a cliché, but choosing wheels is very much a "horses for courses" scenario. For example, our Jet 9 Black wheel is the "fastest" spoked wheel that we make. But, this only really runs true for a flat course, say, when used in a fast time trial or triathlon. If using this wheel in the mountains up steep climbs it's probably no longer the "quickest" option because of it's relatively heavy weight. Conversly, looking at our mountainous ride with steep climbs again, the "quickest" option might well be a lighter wheelset such as our "Ardennes Black" that's going to be a more spritely ascender. Striking a balance of wheel aerodynamics and weight for any particular route is often the holy grail and there is a tipping point for the aero to weight ratio that largely depends on rider speed and power. For example, an average rider climbing at 250 watts will be quicker with a more aerodynamic wheelset on ascents with average gradients of up to about 5%. Any steeper and a lighter wheelset will be more beneficial. For a good pro rider, putting out 400 watts and obviously going quicker, the tipping point is a climb with an average gradient of about 8%. Body type and riding position also has an influential bearing on wheel choice. For example, our Jet 9 Black front wheel is great wheel for a fast time trial. But what if the wind starts to really blow? With it's rim depth of 90mm the Jet 9 Black wheel is naturally affected by cross winds (despite all advances in rim shapes, no wheel can be made invisible to cross winds...). But, an 85kg rider who has a very forward position on the bike with a lot of weight focused over the front wheel is going to be able to comfortable handle this wheel in much windier conditions than a smaller, 60kg rider. Ultimately, the "quickest" wheel for you is a relatively easy choice when considering all of the above. If you're not sure which wheelset is going to be the best for you then we would be more than happy to help you decide. Just contact us so that we can give you our expert advice on riding the quickest wheels for you.




What are your lightest wheels?


Here at HED we don't really focus on weight and it isn't really in our brief when designing any of our wheelsets. It's actually very easy to make a "light" wheelset but this would by no means make it the best performing or indeed the safest way of progressing. The weight of any of our wheels is merely a by-product of superior design and the use of the highest quality materials and manufacturing techniques. When assessing weight, it turns out our wheels are competitive in this regard with rival manufacturer's wheels, but, it's really not something we're particularly focused on. Instead, we focus on aerodynamics, lowering rolling resistance, increasing efficiency, increasing comfort, increasing cornering grip and making the safest wheels possible. We believe that these areas, when executed correctly, lead to much faster wheels across any type of road, whether flat or uphill, than when gram chasing.




Which of your wheels are suitable for clincher/tubeless tyres?


Our wheel ranges that are suitable for clincher/tubeless-ready clincher tyres are as follows: - Black series - Ardennes series - Jet series - Vanquish series - H3+




Which of your wheels are suitable for tubular (glue on) tyres?


Our wheel range that is suitable for tubular/glue on tyres is as follows: - Stinger series




Your "Jet" wheels have a "hybrid" construction. What is this?


The "hybrid" construction of our "Jet" and "Jet Black" wheels comprises of two contributing sections, seamlessly combined to afford unrivalled performance. The first section is the alloy component. This section forms the "base" of the rim and provides the structural integrity, the braking surface and the tyre junction. The second section is a carbon component that acts as an aerodynamic "skin". This "skin" is expertly bonded on to the initial alloy component of the rim to form one complete rim structure. By making our Jet wheels this way we can offer wheels that are industry leading in terms of aerodynamics, have alloy braking consistency, reliability and safety and be competitive with regards to wheelset weight. Our Jet wheels are more than competitive "even" with so called "advanced" full carbon rim brake clincher wheels from other manufacturers. In fact, our Jet wheels are industry leading in terms of aerodynamics but actually also provide a completely safe braking platform, even during prolonged braking on long mountain descents.




Your aero disc wheels have a "skeletal" construction. What is this?


Similar to our "Jet" wheels our aero disc wheels have a "hybrid" construction that we refer to as "skeletal". This is because underneath the full carbon sides of our aero disc wheels lies a full spoked wheel that acts as a structural skeleton, hence the name. The full wheel underneath the full carbon sides simply acts as a normal wheel, in that it provides structural integrity, efficiency, a braking surface and a means with which to attach a tyre. The carbon sides then act like a "skin" and provide all of the aerodynamic properties. By making our disc wheels in this way we can ultimately tune the aerodynamic profile without even having to consider how it may affect other riding properties as these are catered for within the regular "skeletal" wheel underneath. Our disc wheels have an organic, almost wave like profile and it's this profile that affords such low drag across a multitude of yaw angles and riding conditions. Our "skeletal" construction makes the aerodynamic procedure much more efficient from a design and fabrication angle. Another benefit of this type of construction is that if the wheel goes out of true, for example, due to hitting a pothole, it can actually be re-trued via the normal methods used when re-truing a regular spoked wheel.




Why don't you make a "carbon clincher" wheel for rim brakes?


Through extensive research and testing we have come to the conclusion that making a "carbon clincher" wheelset for rim brakes just isn't necessary. Here at HED wheels we will only adapt and utilise new technology or materials if they are indeed an improvement over what is already in place. We can make a carbon clincher rim. We have made carbon clincher rims right up to production level versions. But, at the last moment, when taking them through the final product assessment phase we realised that there was virtually zero benefit granted with regards to performance when using them. During this final assessment and when comparing the carbon clincher rim brake wheels to our "Black Series" collection, that uses a hybrid alloy/carbon construction, we identified that there were negligable improvements in aerodynamics, weight and efficiency while braking performance and safety were in fact being compromised. This final assessment phase also included looking at other manufacturer's carbon clincher rim brake wheels and the same fact also ran true for these, with no performance increase but compromised braking and safety. This led us to believe that carbon, as a material, within a rim brake clincher, was actually only really being offered due to an industry forced trend rather than being an actual improvement over what was already being used. Going back to what we have previously stated in this answer, we will only use a new material if it actually offers performance benefits. You may have noticed that we do now actually offer a "carbon clincher" wheel called the "Vanquish". But, this is a road disc brake only wheelset. By taking the braking away from the rim a full carbon rim construction can now be utilised as there is no longer the risk of rim and/or tyre failure due to overheating during braking. Because of this, carbon is now the best material to use as it can be made lighter and stiffer than when using an alloy as long as it doesn't have to be reinforced in a last ditch effort to increase safety during braking. Our "Vanquish" wheels now offer what we believe to be the ultimate blend of aerodynamics, low rolling resistance, efficiency, weight and sublime braking performance.





5) SERVICING

I would like my wheels to be serviced. Can you do this?


Yes, of course. We have a full in-house workshop here in Sheffield manned by seasoned, professional wheel builders and mechanics. If you would like you wheels serviced, tweaked or repaired then please visit our wheel servicing page on our website here >. From this page you can book a service and then download the returns form that you will need to print out, complete and send in the package along with your wheels.




I've broken a spoke. What should I do?


Spokes very rarely break on our wheels but if they do then you should return the wheel to us. In most cases the spoke can be replaced by us here in our workshop. To return a wheel to us visit the following "servicing" page of our website. From this page you should initially book in a service before then downloading, completing and including the returns form in your package along with your wheel. Pack your wheel securely and send back to us via a recorded, tracked and insured delivery service.




I've damaged my rim. What should I do?


Some rims can be repaired, wheras others can't. Any potential repair is subject to inspection by us here in our workshop so you will need to return the damaged wheel to us so that we can assess the damage and suggest the next course of action. To return a wheel to us visit the following "servicing" page of our website. From this page you should initially book in a service before then downloading, completing and including the returns form in your package along with your wheel. Pack your wheel securely and send back to us via a recorded, tracked and insured delivery service.




Are spare parts for your wheels readily available?


We stock a large selection of wheel spare parts and accessories and all are available via the following page of our website: Parts & Accessories >




I need new hub bearings. What should I do?


New bearings for our hubs are available via the Parts & Accessories page of this website. However, we always recommend returning your HED wheels back to us to have any repair or maintenance work done on them. This advice runs true for bearing replacements. To return a wheel to us visit the following servicing page of our website. From this page you should initially book in a service before then downloading, completing and including the returns form in your package along with your wheel. Pack your wheel securely and send back to us via a recorded, tracked and insured delivery service.




I've crashed my wheels. Can they be fixed?


Accidents do happen and wheels can get damaged in crashes and accidents. If your wheels are damaged in a crash or an accident they should be returned to us for inspection here in our wheel workshop. Once we have inspected the wheels we can suggest the next course of action whether that be repair or replacement. We do offer a crash replacement program, so, if your purchased the wheels from us and the wheel damage is beyond repair then you may be eligible for a discount off a brand new replacement wheel. In any case, as already mentioned a damaged wheel should be returned to us. To return a wheel to us visit the following servicing page of our website. From this page you should initially book in a service before then downloading, completing and including the returns form in your package along with your wheel. Pack your wheel securely and send back to us via a recorded, tracked and insured delivery service.




Do you have a crash replacement policy?


Crashes and accidents happen. For this reason we like to offer support to our customers via our lifetime crash replacement policy. If you crash and damage your wheels then we offer a like for like replacement wheel or wheels at a discount. This is available for lifetime to the original owner of the wheels and is non-transferable. The wheels must have also been bought directly from us rather than through a third-party re-seller of any kind. For full details on our lifetime crash replacement policy visit the following page on our website: Crash Replacement >




What is the warranty on your wheels?


The warranty on our wheels is 5 years from the date of purchase. This warranty is only available to the original purchaser and is non transferable. For full details on our 5 year warranty policy please visit the following page of our website: Warranty >




I would like some new bearings. What size do I need?


The best way to find out what bearing your wheels require is to measure the ones that are currently installed in your wheels. Remove the bearings and then take measurements of the external diameter (ED), internal diameter (ID) and the depth (D) If you can't remove the bearings yourself then take them to your local bike mechanic who should be able to do this for you. Once you have these measurements you can then order replacements via the following page of our website: https://www.hedwheels.com/product-page/hed-wheel-hub-bearings Once you have your new bearings they simply press into your hubs with a wheel bearing press. If you don't have one of these then your local bike mechanic will be able to install the bearings for you. It is not advised to install the bearings without the correct tool as damage will occur if the wrong tool is used.





1) RIM WIDTH

What width of tyre should I use on your wider "Plus" clincher rims?


Our "Plus" clincher rims, as seen on our "Black", "Jet", "Vanquish" and "Ardennes" wheel ranges have two important rim width measurements that make them perform so well. The external rim width is 25mm and the internal rim width, as in the measurement between the two tyre bead hooks, is 21mm. The external rim width of 25mm means that, aerodynamically speaking, our "Plus" rims work best with a tyre that is 23mm to 25mm in width. However, the internal rim width, that is a huge 21mm, not only decreases the rolling resistance of the aforementioned 23mm - 25mm tyres but also means that a wider 28mm to 30mm tyre can be used if a little extra comfort is required. Usually tyres of this width, when used on narrower internal rim widths, become "squirmy" and unstable when cornering, especially when lower tyres pressures are being used. So, the bottom line is that anything from a 23mm wide up to a 28mm wide clincher/tubeless tyre is optimal for our "Plus" rims.




Okay, so exactly how much wider are your "Plus" clincher rims?


Our "Plus" clincher/tubless tyre rims have two important measurements. The external measurement is 25mm and this helps mainly with aerodynamics as it helps smooth the tyre-to-rim junction. The internal rim measurement, the part that comes in to physical contact with the tyre, is 21mm in width. This width is optimal when looking to lower the rolling resistance, to increase the comfort or to increase the cornering grip of a 23mm - 28mm wide clincher/tubeless tyre. As a comparison, many of our our competitiors are still using 17mm - 19mm internal rim widths, naturally sacrificing the benefits outlined above that are seen in our "Plus" rims.




Is a wider rim worse for aerodynamics?


Briefly, no, not really. During the last few years the huge benefits gained from wider tyres with regards to lower rolling resistance and increased cornering grip have been well and truly realised. The trouble is, using these wider tyres on narrower rims did sacrifice aerodynamics when compared to a skinny 19mm - 21mm width tyre. Consequently, to fully take advantage of the benefits seen when using wider tyres, rims had to be made wider to accommodate them from an aerodynamic point of view as well as to enhance the rolling and cornening properties. By using a wider rim, the wider clincher/tubeless tyre no longer "sits" on top of the rim with a "lightbulb" profile as it did on the narrower rim. Instead, the tyre forms a smoother junction with the rim, almost creating one complete shape from an airflow perspective, especially when in tandem with our "Stability Control Technology" refined rim profiles. The result is a much quicker wheel across a multitude of conditions when compared to older, skinnier counterparts.




Should I run different tyre pressures on your wider rims?


We would say "yes" to this question. Lower pressures can be used with our wider "Plus" rims, as seen on our "Jet", "Black", "Vanquish" and "Ardennes" wheels. The widest-in-class internal rim measurement of our "Plus" rims means that the tyre base is "spread" further leading to a shorter but fatter tyre-to-road "footprint". This new impression naturally lowers rolling resistance at any tyre width and at any tyre pressure. Now armed with our "Plus" rims the rider can run a lower pressure to achieve the same rolling resistance all while increasing comfort and cornering grip. What tyre pressure should you use in our "Plus" rims? Be sure to check out the questions in the "Tyres" section of this FAQ's page.




Your wider clincher/tubeless rims have lower rolling resistance. How?


Our "Plus" rims, as seen on our "Jet", "Black", "Ardennes" and "Vanquish" do exhibit lower rolling resistance for any particular tyre and tyre width when compared to rims that have narrower rim measurements. The most important width measurement for a rim when looking at rolling resistance is the internal measurement. This measurement is taken between the hooks that the tyre beads "catch" on to when inflated. The internal measurement of our Plus rims is a widest-in-class 21mm. This width is optimised for use with 23mm - 28mm width tyres as it spreads the base of these tyres. By spreading the tyre base you, in turn, morph the tyre-to-road footprint, changing it from a long, narrow silhouette, to a shorter and fatter impression. The latter described footprint is very important as the shorter and fatter it is the lower the rolling resistance will be.




Your wider clincher/tubeless rims have more comfort and cornering grip. How?


Increased comfort by using our rims is basically a by-product of using lower tyre pressure. Our rims have a widest-in-class internal measurement of 21mm and it's this measurement that is responsible for enabling lower tyre pressures to be used. The wider internal rim measurement spreads the tyre "base" at the point where it meets the rim. This, in turn, morphs the tyre-to-road "footprint" in to a shorter, fatter impression. By doing this, the rolling resistance of any tyre is lowered at any specific tyre pressure. So, by using our wheels, a rider can use a lower pressure to achieve the same rolling resistance albeit at a much lower pressure. The by-product of this lower pressure is naturally increased ride comfort. The previously mentioned shorter, fatter tyre "footprint", achieved when using our rims also has the benefit of increasing cornering grip as there is more tyre in contact with the road across the horizontal plane of this impression. Using lower pressures, naturally allowed by using a wider rim, also has the knock on effect of further widening the footprint increasing cornering grip.




Are pinch flats an issue when using lower tyre pressures on your rims?


All of our clincher rims are fully tubeless tyre compatible. So, from this perspective, pinch flats are non-existant. When using a standard clincher tyre and inner tube set up the chances of pinch flatting when using lower tyre pressures on our wheels are greatly reduced. By spreading the tyre base across a wider internal rim width, as found on our "Plus" rims, you naturally increase the tyre volume and increase the stability of the tyre sidewall. So, even when running lower tyre pressures, the bigger air volume and increased tyre sidewall stability greatly minimises the risk of a tyre "bottoming out".





6) ROAD DISC BRAKES

Do your wheels come in disc brake specific versions?


Yes, with disc brake road bikes becoming more and more popular we of course offer a complete range of disc brake wheels. From our all round performing "Ardennes" through to our super aero "Jet" series and our full carbon "Vanquish" we offer a disc brake wheel option for any course profile or racing requirement. To see our full road bike disc brake collection visit the following page of our website: Road Disc Brake Wheels >




How are HED disc brake wheels different from the normal, rim brake versions?


We don't just change the hub on our rim brake wheels to offer a disc brake wheel collection. Our disc brake rims are completely re-worked to become a disc brake specific rim. So, along with a disc brake hub our disc brake wheels are an entirely different wheel to the rim brake counterparts. It sounds obvious but the disc brake rims no longer need a braking surface. Also, they no longer need to be reinforced to withstand the clamp like forces of a standard rim brake caliper. Consequently, our disc brake rims are actually a touch lighter than the rim brake versions for any given rim depth. Another obvious change is to the hubs. Our disc brake hubs are designed to of course fit all common disc brake rotors while the flanges and hub bodies are reinforced suitably to deal with the increased braking forces involved with disc brakes. Our disc brake wheels are unique within our collection and, other than the spokes share no other parts with our rim brake wheels. It's this approach to their design that leads to our disc brake wheels being perfectly adapted to offer the highest disc brake specific performance possible.




Do disc brakes affect the wheels aerodynamics? Are they slower?


The answer to this question is "well... yes... sort of... but in the end absolutely not...". We understand that this sounds bland and a little non descript but it illustrates exactly the case with aerodynamics and disc brakes. It was initially thought that by placing a metal disc on a wheel hub aerodynamics would instantly take a hit. This thought is true, but only really in isolation. With disc brakes now taking a hold of the market bike manufacturers are now properly investigating and designing bikes with disc brakes in mind. It has now been found that there is little to no aerodynamic penalty to using disc brakes when a frameset is designed around their use. All of the biggest bicycle frameset manufacturers are now designing specifically around disc brakes and disc brake wheels to the extent that some disc brake bikes are actually proving to be much quicker than their rim brake counterparts. Our "Vanquish" wheels, that are disc brake specific, actually take advange of the frames that are now designed purely for disc brakes. The increased frame and fork clearance granted by removing caliper rim brakes means that we could design our "Vanquish" wheelsets with a wider profile, enhancing aerodynamics with wider tyres as well as lowering rolling resistance and incresing comfort. The result, is a wheelset, that when installed in to the latest disc brake specific framsets, that offers the quickest bike and wheel set up we have ever experienced.




Do HED offer different axle options for disc brake wheels?


All common disc brake axles are offered by us with our wheels. When purchasing a disc brake wheel you specify what axle measurement you require. Some adaptors are then offered in our Parts & Accessories section if you ever need to change the axle type.





 

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